A different kind of acid trip.

I think my fellow skincare obsessives would agree: there are a few ingredients that, despite holding a prominent place in our beauty vocabularies, we’d be hard pressed to define. For me, AHAs (AKA alpha hydroxy acids) might be the best example. Maybe it’s the medicinal-sounding name, or the ingredient’s intimidatingly acidic nature, but knowing where to start when it comes to the best AHA products—and the savviest way to deploy them in a routine—has long eluded me.         

But these organically occurring exfoliators more than deserve our attention for their hardworking-but-gentle nature and the vast variety of concerns they address—fine lines, discoloration, acne scars, rough texture… you name it.

For a thorough brushing up on the power of AHAs, I tapped four skincare experts—Karen Fernandez, Lead Aesthetician at SkinSpirit, dermatological nurse and celebrity aesthetician Natalie Aguilar, Dr. Heather D. Rogers, dermatologist and founder and CEO of Doctor Rogers, and board-certified dermatologist Dr. Loretta Ciraldo, founder of Dr. Loretta skincare.

Ahead, they answer all your burning AHA questions (including why the ingredient might actually burn) and share their recommendations for the best AHA products in the game.

Feature image by Riley Reed.

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Long loved by dermatologists, Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are a group of acids (derived from fruits, nuts, sugars, and milk) that effectively exfoliate and promote skin cell turnover without being as harsh as physical scrubs. In-office peels are packed with a high concentration of AHAs, but you’ll find lower concentrations in a variety of at-home products, including cleansers, toners, and moisturizers.

The most common AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid, but others include malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid. 

AHAs work their magic by dissolving the outer layer of dead skin cells on your face, revealing a smoother, brighter complexion.

However, Dr. Ciraldo warns to be careful with the best at-home AHA products. “The most effective formulas are very acidic and have a low pH so you shouldn’t use them right up to eye skin since this can cause irritation, redness, swelling and even skin peeling,” she adds.

A few notable AHA benefits:

Though AHAs are known for being relatively gentle, they’re still acids at the end of the day. Our experts share a few tips on how to handle with care.

AHAs ask a lot of our skin, so it’s important to support it—not overload it.

Alpha hydroxy acids play especially well with moisturizing products. After freshly exfoliating your skin, it’s primed to receive all the nourishing benefits of ingredients like hyaluronic acid, squalane, or glycerin.

And while you don’t want to do multiple treatments in one night (like following up an AHA serum with a retinol cream), it’s OK if one product blends multiple active ingredients. “For example, the Skinbetter Alpha Ret has AHA and retinol, which work brilliantly together,” Dr. Rogers explains.

However, Dr. Rogers warns never to use AHAs right after a procedure—even waxing. You could potentially burn the skin. “Also, you shouldn’t combine AHA with retinoids or a high percentage of acid, like 10% or higher L-ascorbic acid for if Vitamin C,” she adds.

From AHA-soaked pads to hardworking creams suitable for sensitive skin, our four experts share their picks for the best AHA products.

SkinMedica AHA:BHA Exfoliating Cleanser

“SkinMedica’s AHA/BHA cleanser is a great way to incorporate these clarifying acids into your routine.”  — Karen Fernandez

In The Glow How 5% Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Tonic

“This toner is a skin slougher that gently exfoliates and removes impurities for super-smooth, dewy skin. It deeply cleanses pores, while hydrating, refreshing and helping to balance one’s complexion.” — Natalie Aguilar

Skinbetter AlphaRet Exfoliating Peel Pads

“For the most powerful AHA action, SkinBetter Peel pads will act like a mini chemical peel facial at home. Use three times a week for anti-aging and clarifying results.” — Karen Fernandez

goop GOOPGLOW 15% Glycolic Acid Overnight Glow Peel

“Some people prefer pads, which are great for the face, neck, chest, and even shoulders to smooth skin and correct sun damage. Be sure to follow with a thick moisturizer.” — Dr. Heather Rogers

Dr. Loretta Micro Peel Peptide Pads

“These pads combine the benefits of physical and chemical resurfacing in one product. They are lightly textured pads infused with 10% glycolic at low pH of 3.5 combined with very hydrating marine peptides to replenish moisture that is lost when you shed the surface layer of skin cells as well.” — Dr. Loretta Ciraldo

Sanitas Skincare Brightening Peel Pads

“These peel pads are a professional strength, corrective exfoliating treatment that utilizes a triple acid blend to brighten, tone, and reveal clear radiant skin and a more uniform tone and texture.” — Natalie Aguilar

Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant

“Again, this is well tolerated by most skin types, has no fragrance, and is a more affordable option.” — Dr. Heather Rogers

L’Oreal Paris Skincare 10% Pure Glycolic Acid Serum

“It is recommended for nightly use—it has been pH adjusted to more neutral pH and it has aloe to soothe skin. The acid has been partially neutralized, which is more compatible with sensitive skin.” — Dr. Loretta Ciraldo

Jan Marini Bioclear Face Lotion

“This is an absolute favorite at SkinSpirit. It is a mixture of AHAs and BHAs and is gentle enough to use every day.” — Karen Fernandez

“This is very well tolerated by most skin types and offers retinol and glycolic acid benefits.” — Dr. Heather Rogers 

Isdin Glicoisdin® 8 Soft Face Cream

“I recommend this hydrating option for those with sensitive skin.” — Dr. Heather Rogers

“This cult classic exfoliates nicely and is easy to work into your evening routine.” — Dr. Heather Rogers

Wander Beauty’s Fast Lane Instant Facial

“This effective mask blends glycolic, salicylic, and lactic acids to smooth the skin’s texture and unclog pores by gently exfoliating the build-up of dead skin cells. Alongside those amazing AHAs and BHA, this mask also has meadowfoam seed oil that locks in moisture and softens skin. This face mask dramatically minimizes the appearance of pores and fine lines. This is typically one of my go-to products before a last-minute night out.” — Natalie Aguilar

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