Judging wine competitions has always been somewhat thankless work. Sitting in what are often windowless, cold rooms for 8 hours at a stretch, evaluating hundreds of wines (many of which aren’t all that great) ends up being much more of a chore than it is a pleasure.
For this reason, I’m somewhat selective when it comes to accepting invitations to be a wine judge. I tend to say yes to competitions that are either opportunities for me to learn a lot about a region that I don’t know well, or are from regions that I believe need support. I also tend to say yes when I know the competitions are particularly well-run (poorly organized judging is its own sort of hell).
My annual participation in the Colorado Governor’s Cup Wine Competition pretty much ticks all three of those boxes. Though, after five or six years of judging, I’m starting to get a pretty good sense of Colorado wine. But this scrappy little region needs a lot of support, especially in the face of climate-driven disasters (e.g. crazy heat, killing freezes) that have put the whole industry in peril, and the competition continues to be an efficiently run event with an excellent cohort of judges.
Early in September, I joined my fellow judges, many of which have the initials MS and MW following their names, in tasting through a couple of hundred Colorado wines to select the very best that become the Colorado Governor’s Cup Collection, a grouping of wines that in addition to being celebrated as the state’s best, is made available for consumers to purchase as a set.
This year’s Governor’s Cup Collection included the following top-scoring wines:
2021 Aspen Peak Cellars Pinot Gris, American 2019 Carboy Winery Petit Verdot, Grand Valley 2020 Carboy Winery Teroldego, Grand Valley 2019 Carboy Winery Blanc LaLaLa (Sparkling Gruner Veltliner), Grand Valley 2021 Carlson Vineyards Sweet Baby White Blend, American 2020 Mesa Park Vineyards Equilibre Red Blend, Grand Valley 2021 The Peachfork Chambourcin, Grand Valley NV Red Fox Cellars Nebbiolo, Grand Valley NV Slaymaker Cellars Traditional Wildflower Mead 2019 The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey Syrah, Colorado 2017 Vino Salida Wine Cellars Tempranillo, Grand Valley 2021 Whitewater Hill Vineyards Dry Rose of St. Vincent, Grand Valley
Colorado wine often elicits a “Wait, what?” reaction from even the most serious wine lovers. The state has a long history of wine growing, however, going back to the days of the western frontier, when settlers discovered that Colorado’s Grand Valley was an ideal place to grow both fruit trees (especially peaches) and grapes.
By the late 1880s, people were already making small amounts of wine, and by 1899, government reports show more than 250 tons of grapes were harvested and 1744 gallons of wine were produced. In the next 10 years, that crop would double in size, and then nearly double again just in time to be wiped out by the advent of Prohibition in 1916, along with the fledgling wine industries of so many other states.
Things were slow to recover after the repeal of Prohibition. But by 1968, a dentist named Dr. Gerald Ivancie had decided that Colorado needed to return to its winemaking heritage, and so he planted some vineyards and opened Ivancie Cellars. Not one to do anything by half measures, Ivancie decided he needed a trained winemaker to help him, and for that, he looked to California.
Coincidentally, a young Warren Winiarski (who would go on to make the Cabernet that triumphed at the 1976 Judgment of Paris competition) had recently been told his services were no longer needed at Robert Mondavi Winery. When Winiarski got the call from Ivancie, he leaped at the chance to help start an enterprise from the ground up.
Winiarski quickly convinced Ivancie to plant the first vitis vinifera vines in the state, and was responsible for making the first few vintages of Ivancie’s wine. Winiarski’s tenure would be short, for two years later the opportunity arose to purchase a prune orchard that would become Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, but his work with Ivancie effectively launched the modern Colorado wine industry and set it on a path to produce high-quality wines.
Things didn’t exactly explode after Winiarski headed back to Napa. By 1990 there were a mere 5 wineries in the state. But things have picked up since then.
Colorado now boasts more than 150 wineries farming close to 800 acres of vineyards, as well as two established American Viticultural Areas, Grand Valley AVA and West Elks AVA. Most of the grapes are grown between 4000 and 7000 feet of elevation in what are generally “high desert” micro-climates, providing dynamic daytime and nighttime temperatures that make for excellent grape growing, along with challenges such as winter freezes and both early and late-season frosts. Indeed, just a couple of years ago, the state’s acreage was well north of 1000 acres of vines, but a cold snap in October of 2020 killed a significant number of vines, and intense heat in 2021 withered grapes on those that did survive.
As judges, we are starting to see the impact of these two disastrous vintages, as more of the wines submitted to the competition are multi-vintage blends or include grapes from California (usually signalled by a generic “American Wine” appellation on the bottle).
The 2022 vintage, though hot, was thankfully spared the most extremes of weather and lots of replanting happened through the spring, but it will be two or three years before many growers are back on solid footing, barring more extreme weather in the interim.
These extremities of weather naturally have many growers looking at hybrid grape varieties, and there were a few examples of wines made from these grapes that I enjoyed, but far more that I didn’t. It’s easy for me as an outsider and as someone whose livelihood doesn’t depend on getting a viable harvest to say that I think growers should stick with vitis vinifera grapes, but by far the best wines being made in the state continue to be with non-hybrid grapes.
Assuming the climate permits Colorado growers to get reasonable, healthy harvests, and winemakers continue to improve their craft, the state has a bright future ahead of it.
In past years, Cabernet Franc has been one of the standout grape varieties for the state, but it may be that it was particularly vulnerable to the extremities of the past couple of vintages. Instead, Syrah was the standout this year, with a couple of really excellent examples on offer.
Here are my favorite wines from this year’s competition.
The notes and scores below are my own, made during the judging process. They don’t reflect the input of other judges and are therefore different in their qualitative score and ranking than the final results of the competition.
NV The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey “As Above So Below: The Astrologist” White Blend, America Palest greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of white flowers and citrus pith. In the mouth, lightly sweet flavors of citrus, apple, pear, and a hint of peach nectar have a nice complexion. Pretty aromatics. Decent acidity. A blend of 75% Riesling, 16% Sauvignon Blanc, and 9% Viognier. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $16. click to buy.
2020 Storm Cellar Gruner Veltliner, Grand Valley Light greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of struck flint, honey, and lemongrass. In the mouth, bright lemony apple and citrus peel flavors have a silky and creamy texture. Softer acidity here, but a really lovely flavor profile. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $22. click to buy.
2021 Aspen Peak Cellars Pinot Gris, America Light blonde in color with vaguely pink highlights, this wine smells of poached pears and white flowers. In the mouth, pear, crème anglaise, and white flowers have a silky, creamy texture. Excellent flavors with a hint of tannic texture at the back of the mouth. Wish it had more acidity but very pretty flavors. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $22.
2020 Plum Creek Winery Riesling, Grand Valley Palest greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of faint white flowers and Asian pear. In the mouth, white flowers, Asian pear, honeysuckle, and winter melon flavors have decent acidity and minerality, and a moderate sweetness. 19 g/l of residual sugar. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $18. click to buy.
2021 Carlson Vineyards “Laughing Cat – Sweet Baby White” White Blend, America Pale greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of white flowers, green melon, and green apple. In the mouth, moderately sweet flavors of green melon, and green apple mix with nice floral components. Fresh and bright thanks to excellent acidity. 37% Aromella, 26% Riesling, 21% Muscat, 16% Gewurztraminer. 45 g/l of residual sugar. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $16. click to buy.
NV Snowy Peaks Winery “Elevé Sucré” Gewurztraminer, Grand Valley Medium yellow-gold in the glass with chartreuse highlights, this wine smells of candied orange peels and a hint of kumquat. In the mouth, extremely sweet, silky flavors of orange peel and candied kumquat have a tiny hint of bitterness in the finish. Decent acidity. 160 g/l of residual sugar. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $16.
2021 Whitewater Hill Vineyards Dry Rose of St. Vincent, Grand Valley Light ruby in the glass, this wine smells of sweet cherry and cranberry. In the mouth, cherry and cranberry brightness is somewhat simple but quite compelling. Faint tannins, with a nice dose of acidity. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $19.
2019 Carboy Winery “Blanc LaLaLa” Gruner Veltliner, Grand Valley Light greenish gold in the glass with medium bubbles, this wine smells of applesauce. In the mouth, applesauce, lemon zest, and grapefruit pith have a nice crisp minerality and a hint of chalky texture. Excellent acidity, and a soft mousse. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $32.
2021 Carlson Vineyards “HOWL – High Desert Wine Lab Off-Dry” Riesling, America Palest greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of Asian pear and white flowers. In the mouth, faint honeysuckle and Asian pear flavors have a faint sweetness to them. 11 g/l of residual sugar. Score: between 8 and 8.5. Cost: $24. click to buy.
2021 Aspen Peak Cellars Riesling, America Palest greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of citrus pith and honeysuckle. In the mouth, honeysuckle and mandarine orange zest flavors are faintly sweet. Good acidity and minerality. 24 g/l Score: between 8 and 8.5. Cost: $22.
2021 Aspen Peak Cellars Albariño, America Light greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of lime zest, green apple, and grapefruit. In the mouth, green apple flavors mix with a hint of lime zest. Softer acidity than I would like, so the wine is silkier than it is snappy. Score: between 8 and 8.5. Cost: $22.
2021 Whitewater Hill Vineyards Moscato, Grand Valley Light gold in the glass, this wine smells of green melon and green apple. In the mouth, candied green apple flavors are pure and bright. Moderately sweet. 70 g/l of residual sugar Score: around 8. Cost: $19. click to buy.
2018 Colorado Cellars Syrah, Colorado Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of white pepper and blackberries. In the mouth, bright blackberry and white pepper flavors are backed by good acidity and fine-grained fleecy tannins. Very tasty. Score: around 9. Cost: $22. click to buy.
2019 BookCliff Vineyards Syrah, Grand Valley Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry and dried flowers. In the mouth, rich and bright blackberry and blueberry flavors have nice floral aromatics, excellent acid balance, and fine-grained tannins that are slightly putty-like in consistency. Score: around 9. Cost: $20. click to buy.
2019 The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey Syrah, Colorado Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry and black cherry. In the mouth, juicy black cherry and blackberry flavors have a faint creaminess and silky texture. The fruit has a nice sweet aroma and there’s good acidity. Nicely balanced, with fine tannins, Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $34. click to buy.
2020 Aspen Peak Cellars “Vintner’s Reserve” Syrah, Colorado Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of meaty blackberry and black cherry fruit with hints of herbs. In the mouth, black cherry and blackberry fruit mixes with espresso and has a nice saline component and fine-grained, stony tannins. Excellent acidity and minerality. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $35.
2019 Two Rivers Winery Syrah, Mesa County Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of rusty metal and beef jerky. In the mouth, cassis and blackberry flavors have a sourish note, with a faint salinity. There’s a touch of herbs on the finish and faint tannins. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $16. click to buy.
2020 Mesa Park Vineyards “Equilibre” Red Blend, Grand Valley Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry and cassis. In the mouth, black cherry, cassis, and black plum flavors have a chewy, muscular tannic backbone and excellent acidity. Well-integrated wood. A blend of 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, and 20% Petit Verdot. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $36. click to buy.
2019 The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey Syrah, Colorado Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blueberry, blackberry, and bone broth. In the mouth, blackberry and an umami broth flavor are backed by fleecy tannins and a touch of new wood. Decent acidity. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $34. click to buy.
NV Red Fox Cellars Nebbiolo, Grand Valley Medium ruby in the glass, with garnet highlights, this wine smells of dried flowers and strawberries. In the mouth, hints of tar and strawberries and dried flowers are wrapped in a thick, fleecy blanket of tannins. This is textbook, varietally correct Nebbiolo. Impressive. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $38. click to buy.
NV Whitewater Hill Vineyards “Sweetheart Red” Red Blend, Grand Valley Medium garnet in color with royal purple highlights, this wine smells of cherries and blackberries. In the mouth, lightly to moderately sweet flavors of cherry and blueberry and blackberry have a soft acidity, but enough to make this a pleasant wine, if sweet reds are your thing. A blend of 66% Chambourcin, 21% Muscat Blanc, 8% Gewurztraminer, and 5% Riesling Score: around 8.5. Cost: $16. click to buy.
2020 Carboy Winery Teroldego, Grand Valley Very dark purple in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry and black cherry. In the mouth, faintly smoky notes of blackberry, black cherry, blueberries, and a touch of iodine have a lovely fine-grained tannic structure and excellent juicy acidity. Quite elegant and pretty. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $30.
2019 Carboy Winery Petite Verdot, Grand Valley Very dark purple in color, this wine smells of slightly smoky blueberry and blackberry fruit. In the mouth, the wine is dense and rich with blueberry and blackberry fruit along with mouth-coating chewy tannins that have a fleecy quality. Massive, but with good acidity. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $28. click to buy.
2019 Williams Cellars “Spirits Freed” Syrah, Delta County Very dark garnet in color, this wine smells of forest floor and new oak. In the mouth, herbal notes of blackberry and black cherry have a nice earthy backdrop, and the wood is present mostly as thick, muscular tannins that increase their grip over time. Score: between 8 and 8.5. Cost: $50.
2019 Taboche Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, America Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of candied cherry and plum. In the mouth, cherry and plum flavors are bright with acidity and backed by faint tannins. Simple and straightforward with a hint of green herbs in the finish. Score: between 8 and 8.5. Cost: $25. click to buy.
2019 Vinnie Fera “Hogback” Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Valley Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of sage, black cherry, and black plum. In the mouth, black cherry, incense, sage, and dried flowers are wrapped in powdery, chalky tannins. Long finish. Includes 8% Petite Verdot. Score: between 8 and 8.5. Cost: $28. click to buy.
2018 Snowy Peaks Winery Syrah, Grand Valley Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry and floral notes. In the mouth, blackberry and black cherry have decent acidity and faint tannins. There’s a touch of umami here. Includes 10% Viognier. Score: around 8. Cost: $22. click to buy.
2015 Williams Cellars “Sun God Red” Cabernet Sauvignon, Delta County Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry and raisins. In the mouth, black cherry and raisin flavors have a nice chocolatey mocha note to them with some brown sugar lingering in the finish. Fleecy tannins and some heat in the finish. Score: around 8. Cost: $30. click to buy.
2017 Vino Salida Tempranillo, Grand Valley Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cherry and dusty earth with a dose of camphor. In the mouth, camphor, cherry, dusty road tannins, decent acidity, but a little odd. Score: around 8. Cost: $28. click to buy.
2021 Peachfork Chambourcin, Grand Valley Very dark purple in the glass, this wine smells of grapey blackberry and blueberry fruit. In the mouth, slightly tart blueberry and blackberry fruit flavors are backed by fleecy tannins. There’s a bitter herbal note in the finish. Score: around 8. Cost: $20.
NV Red Fox Cellars Tempranillo, Grand Valley Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of toasted oak and cherry fruit. In the mouth, cherry, oak, espresso, and hints of brown sugar have a fine-grained tannic texture. Too much oak for my taste, but many people will enjoy it. Score: around 8. Cost: $24.
Tags:Colorado Wine, high-elevation, wine competition, wine judging
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